La guia de Cabo de Psaltis
(The Psaltis Guide to Cabo)
 
First of all, you must understand that this is not (I repeat NOT) "the" ultimate guide to Cabo-- everyone who would bother to write one would write it differently-- we simply want to share with you our own perspective of this fabulous destination that we hope will be as enjoyable for you as it has been for us. All information here is our bias-- that is, we're just telling you what we liked and we hope it helps!
 
The 2009 version was the first significant rewrite in many years. We have updated the guide on many occasions, but felt ready to begin anew. Among other things Cabo has morphed into a genuine “destination,” as opposed the cute little fishing town we found on our first visit in 1993. It is both a good thing and a bad one. The degree of Americanization has certainly impacted the Mexican “feel” for the town. We had always enjoyed the fact that Cabo, unlike Puerto Vallarta and other big-name Mexican destinations, had maintained its local flavor. Now it is more difficult to find that. The good news (if you choose to call it that) is that Cabo has become far more upscale in its restaurants, shopping and overall feel. There are more cars, more paved roads, more American restaurants, more luxury items and more people now than ever, but there are parts of Cabo that will never change. It is sunny, warm and dry, which, for a Pacific Northwesterner, is about as good as it gets when we’ve forgotten if the sun even exists! So again, take heart—there is plenty there for all, even if Cabo has become more “cosmopolitan.” Some might say that is progress.
 
Given the rise in cost of meals at some of our old haunts, we have begun to venture into areas of Cabo that we had previously either ignored or just didn’t even know existed. Many of the places we are recommending here are the old “tried and true” spots but at the same time, we have also begun to look into some neighborhoods where the locals also eat. It has been fun, not always delicious, but invariably cheaper than some of our old haunts. If you are on a tight budget, or are frustrated by $100 dollar dinner tabs for your family (or for two), we’d suggest you shop at the local markets and spend a bit of time making your own meals, particularly the leftovers from the enormous portions doled out at most of the local hot spots.
 
In keeping with the spirit of our 2009 thoughts, the 2013 version is specifically targeted at the new places we found that ARE more in keeping with the spirit of old Mexico. We have opted to take a few of the past favorites out (in particular the “good places to find a drink”) because these are now so plentiful that you really don’t need our help to find a lovely sunset bar. During our weeks in CSL in 2012 and 2013 we actively sought out new places that we feel are more “local” in flavor. It gave us more variety and helped our wallets a bit. If you are like us, you may not go on vacation to save money, but in the same breath, it doesn’t hurt to enjoy some local color (and cuisine) for less than $20 for two. The 2012 version will bring you an eclectic mix of places, prices and atmospheres. We always do our best to be honest and accurate. As with the rest the world, things are always changing in Cabo, so what is included here is true as of February, 2013. Enjoy.

Now up to 2015 and I am finally moving this little guide into the 21st century by including websites for the various places we have listed. Some restaurants don't have websites, so I have used Trip Advisor or Google Plus as alternatives. In many cases, the menus are posted as are opinions of other people who have gone, so if you don't get quite enough information from our thoughts, you will have access to more opinions and ideas via the internet.
 
And now, on to the guide, as seen by the Psaltises!
 
The area along the marina next to the super mall (Porto Paraiso) has become a very, very swank area with upscale restaurants and specialty shops, such as Señor Sweet, where you can buy Italian style gelato. We went there one day and spent more for our two tiny cups of gelato than we had paid for an entire meal at some of the locals’ restaurants (see next paragraph). We did not eat at any of the new places we saw only because we didn’t feel we didn’t need to drop another $80- 100 for a single meal. More recently we, on the other hand……..
 
Our recent expeditions provided exhilarating times. These places are the opposites of some of the ritzy spots listed below, but I think you will find them to be fun and, in our experience, safe (health-wise). The newer ones below are located in an area that is a mere 2-3-4 blocks off the main drag, but feels as if it is at least 50 miles from the night-club like atmosphere of the touristy section of Cabo. Please understand that some of the places (such as #’s 14 and 21 below) are VERY BASIC and that speaking Spanish will be helpful to you. By the same token, we might suggest that you simply meander up and down Jose Morelos Street or Leona Vicario Street (both come off Lazaro Cardenas Street near the Porto Paraiso super mall) and decide for yourself where you might want to jump in. You will find this area outlined in RED on the map. Also, we found a place in Todos Santos that occupies the #3 slot formerly occupied by The Giggling Marlin, which we have dropped off our list altogether. Los Adobes is worth the drive to Todos Santos all by itself, although the town is also fun and significantly different than Cabo. It is about a 1 hour drive (in spite of being only about 45 miles) north of Cabo on Highway 19. It would be best to rent a car, since a taxi would cost you an arm and a leg and the local buses might take forever. Our efforts for seeking out new places proved to be well worth the effort. We hope you think so, too.
 
RELAX!!
 
For a married couple like us, we mostly go to Cabo to RELAX, so our main recommendation is to enjoy the weather, which is nearly always sunny and clear. Unless you are sure you want to buy (or are considering buying) a time share, you should AVOID THE "WELCOME BREAKFAST," or any other variation on the rip-off theme of cheap cars to rent, $100 gift certificates, free breakfasts, or anything else that requires you attend "a presentation." These people are relentless (and even rude) and will NOT, we assure you, "take only 1 1/2 hours of your time" to tell you about the wonders of time share. They will easily suck up 2-3-4 hours of your precious vacation time making you agonize over spending lots of money. TRUST US!!! YOU ARE BETTER OFF AVOIDING THEM!!! We will add here that we have bought time shares, but we had considered it seriously before. We are very happy with our decision to buy, so the concept of time share purchase is actually not a bad one. If you are considering it, have lunch with us and we'll give you the information you need. Then if you're still interested, you can set up an appointment and simply buy, saving yourself lots of hassle. When you arrive at the airport, there are TWO ROOMS full of these sharks, all of whom will tell you they are "helping you with a taxi." They are doing that, but will also cajole you into their "presentation." You are better off marching directly to the booth at the end of the SECOND room (after customs) that is clearly marked "TAXI" and purchase your ticket there. It is not cheap. There are shuttles, but depending on the location of your destination, it might take you quite a while in the shuttle as it drops off other passengers. The shuttle costs $18/person, while a taxi costs an astonishing $80. If you are like us, we are in Cabo to be in Cabo, not to be in a shuttle that is eating up more of our time for a "mere" $44 savings (for two). Just a thought!
 
EAT, EAT, EAT!!
 
You are in for many treats in Cabo and we will list the ones we particularly like. There will be many choices, so if you don't follow ours, you'll still probably do well. We have now been in Cabo several times since 1993 and feel that we can save you lots of time looking around by going to any/all of the following (not necessarily in order of our preferences):
 
"H"  (#1 on our map) Old Highway to Cabo San Jose      Click here for Trip Advisor

Imagine, if you can, stepping off a street in Cabo San Lucas into a well-appointed restaurant that somehow brilliantly blends a sports-bar appearance with Frank Sinatra and Tony Bennett style music in the background and a "skinny" pizza with goat cheese, pesto, pine nuts and some kind of fabulous dressing on it. If you can do that, you will appreciate the ambiance and the comfort of "H," a restaurant I just discovered this week (May, 2013) during my volunteer dental trip. Owned by Luis Herrera (hence, the "H") this is a jewel with an interesting menu and a uniqueness that shot it far up on my scale. Do not miss the "Melanie's favorite" pizza (described above) and dive into the varied menu that spans from gourmet tacos (the kind you will NOT find at Taco Bell, for sure) to your good old hamburger. Nothing here appears routine. Those of you who know me are aware that I claim bragging rights to the best margarita you have ever tasted. When Luis mixed one for me, he explained that it was the "simplest recipe" in the world. Perhaps. I remain convinced that he has a magic ingredient that he is not divulging. This is not your rock-bottom bargain-basement place that we have sought out in recent years, but is worth the visit and its moderate prices. It is NOT a "typo" that this and La Ricazon (below) both have #1 as their locations on the map-- in fact they are next door neighbors. Find one and you've found them both. Luis has had an "H" restaurant in Cabo San Jose for several years, but just opened his Cabo San Lucas location in November, 2012. How lucky for us!

LA RICAZON  (#1 on our map) Old Highway to Cabo San Jose      Click here for website.

 
This is a delightful breath of fresh air amidst many over-priced, gaudy restaurants in Cabo San Lucas. We ate at the "original" in San Jose del Cabo in 1998 and were thrilled to discover that a new one had just opened in Cabo San Lucas less than a month prior to our 2002 visit. It is very simple in decor. In fact, the restroom has no roof on it, although it is perfectly fine. It's probably not best to begin a restaurant recommendation with a discussion of its toilet, but this location is so simple that the "facility" provides a unique flare to the place! The food is delicious and plentiful-- there are "wraps," which are cousins to burritos, quesadillas and taquitos. The bill will astound you-- after routinely paying $15-20 per person during our 2002 visit, we were stunned when handed our bill for $50 (for six adults), which included soft drinks and enough food to stuff us. 2013 update: Wow, this was a MAJOR change from the description above. La Ricazon is still in the same location, but now also has a restaurant on Lazaro Cardenas right around the corner from the Big Mall. That one is rather boistrous (for us) with loud music, etc. The original location has drastically changed to a much more upscale restaurant with a full bar and a varied menu. Four of us went there together and agreed it was one of the better meals we had during our time this year. The waiters are very friendly and the food was excellent. Prices are no longer $50 for six adults, but it was a great meal with a higher price. We still recommend it highly, even if it has morphed into something unlike the original.
 
BAJA CANTINA (#2 on our map) on the marina     Click here for website
 
Located on the Marina, right in front of the Wyndham Resort, this is a delightful restaurant for any meal, but we really like its breakfasts. It is "reasonable" in price and has good food. For breakfast, it has a mondo-burrito I loved and has some of the best pancakes we have ever had anywhere. The menu is varied-- there are many egg dishes, including huevos rancheros and eggs mexicana and, as is generally true in all of Cabo, the juices are freshly squeezed and the fruit plates are fine. Dinners are also good. It's kind of fun to enjoy a meal while checking out all the expensive yachts moored in front of you on the marina leaving you to wonder “WHO owns these things?” 2013 update: Basically the Baja Cantina, which was the very first place in CSL we ever ate, remains largely the same. However, we noted a slight effort to make the appearance a bit more formal, such as linen tablecloths, chips served in crafted wire containers and other amenities that took some of the "funky" out of it. TVs are still throughout, but it now seems more like a restaurant than a sports bar.

  
         Baja Cantina from the boardwalk...                         ...and the view of the marina from the restaurant    
 
LOS ADOBES (in Todos Santos, not on our map)     Click here for website
 
This restaurant probably provided the high point of our entire 2007 stay. It is a small place and the food is organic, elegant and reasonable. As it that weren’t enough, the restaurant also has an internet bar across a stunningly groomed cactus garden from the restaurant, as well as an espresso bar. We particularly enjoyed the chiles en nogada, a traditional dish prepared (in this case) without frying anything. Also, Mary Ellen felt their flan was the best she’s eaten. There is a wide variety of items on the menu and we will no doubt be sampling many more in the coming years.
 
HEALTHY (#4 on the map Cinco de Mayo Street     Click here for website
 
Strangely enough, we found this place entirely by accident. We were searching out a recommended restaurant (that ultimately turned out to be next door) and spotted this clean, newly renovated place. We were greeted by Panaco Castillo , who had worked for the Anderson Group (El Squid Roe, etc) for 30 years and then decided to open his own restaurant with “real food.” We were surprised with the interesting (although limited) menu that emphasize the healthiness of the food. We ordered vegetarian lasagna and a grilled pear salad. Both were excellent, but of note was that the lasagna not only contained no meat, it also contained no pasta and virtually no cheese. No chips were served ahead of time and after a lively conversation with the owner and the chef (Johnathan Zermann) we left feeling remarkably NOT full, as we often do after stuffing ourselves with chips and cheese. We hope this place will be successful as it is one of the most innovative concepts we have found in Cabo. 2013 update: Returned with four friends and all felt the restaurant was excellent. The place is still a long way from being "packed," but we heard some people say to the owner that it was their favorite place in CSL. We liked it a lot, too. 2015 update: We were disappointed to be the only four diners on Valentine's Day this year. The waiter said they'd been busy earlier in the day, but it was hard to see such a nice place so vacant while all the "usual" Mexican places were packed. We're still pulling for this restaurant!

 
   This lovely quiet setting is worth finding....                ...and its cool logo
 
PANCHO'S (#5 on our map) Miguel Hidalgo Street     Click here for website
 
Pancho's is located on Miguel Hidalgo Street and serves good Mexican meals as well as some tasty fish dishes for dinner. They also have a breakfast special each day (it varies from day to day), but is usually a genuine bargain. We had the special one time and it was quite a deal. This is a restaurant that is supposedly being researched by Guinness Book for being the place with the biggest variety of brands of Tequila under one roof. We have had both breakfast and dinner there and for the price, thought it was a much better than average place. 2007 update: this is one of the places that will cost you US $60 for a dinner—what happened to the bargain place we once knew? Also, the fish we ordered was literally awful. We sent it back and the replacement wasn’t that great. Stick with Mexican here! 2010 update: breakfast bargains are back! 2013 update: OK, so there is probably no place in Cabo that has had more ups and downs (in our experience). We did not eat here this year, but did have a most enjoyable time interviewing an accommodating bar tender about the finer points of tequila. Juan Carlos Martinez was well versed in Mexico's classic liquor and was most engaging. We did have a nice guacamole while talking to him, but that is the sole basis for any recommendations this year.
 

 One of many popular places on Miguel Hidalgo

MI CASA (#6 on our map) Cabo San Lucas Street     Click her for website
 
This is an especially attractive restaurant with a charming decor that serves up some of the more interesting Mexican food in town. This is not a place to go for tacos or enchiladas-- the menu is much more interesting than that. It is moderately priced and we thoroughly enjoyed the setting, food and the solo guitarist who came to our table and sang a couple of very nice songs. It, like the other good restaurants in Cabo, can be quite busy, so we'd recommend either going at an "off" time (like 5:30- 6:00), calling ahead for reservations or planning to have a margarita or two while you wait for a table. 2013 update: We hadn't been here in years (for no particular reason) and were happy to return to this still-charming restaurant. The mariachis were a bit loud and were singing some classic Mexican tunes as "Margaritaville." So much for authenticity. We are happy to report, though, that the food is still authentic, albeit pricey.


   You can't miss this place with its blue color.
 
CABO WABO (#7 on our map) Vicente Guerrero Street     Click here for website
 
This is another of the "cute" restaurants, meaning that quite a number of the eateries in Cabo try hard to be funny, off-the-wall, unique or whatever adjective you decide is most appropriate. At the Cabo Wabo, they have a number of unusual drinks and, much like the other places we mentioned above, has good food, including breakfast specials. It can be wild at night (we've heard) and is owned by Sammy Hager.
 

              Party time here at Hager's
 
THE OFFICE (#8 on our map) on Medano Beach     Click here for website
 
This is a favorite breakfast spot we visit EVERY time we go to Cabo. It is located right on Medano Beach between the Hacienda Hotel and Hotel Melia. My top choice at The Office is the chilaquiles, a tortilla-like specialty for breakfast-- it's worth trying out. They also serve a variety of fruit smoothies, drinks that are like milkshakes, but made entirely from fresh fruits-- a total treat at any time, but particularly enjoyable for breakfast. After breakfast, you can walk down to the Sea of Cortes and stick your feet into the surf!! The service is not too fast and there can be hawkers running up and down the beach, trying to sell you anything from jewelry to your name written on a grain of rice, but they are not as persistent as, say, a swarm of flies. 2013 update: I only include some thoughts here because The Office is the one (and only) place we go every single time we are in Cabo. I'm not sure exactly what the draw is other than tradition and the sand beneath my feet. Like most other places, it has gotten more expensive, but nothing has stopped us from our annual visit.

 
    Breakfast on the beach with toes in the sand                The entry from the street

 
PEACOCKS (#9 on our map) Paseo del Pescador Street     Click here for website
 
This is another of the nicer restaurants in Cabo-- it is owned by a Swiss man who brings a number of continental cuisine treats to Cabo. It is a bit more expensive, also a slight degree more elegant, but still fairly simple in style. There is a nice outdoor veranda where you can sit. We found these meals to be quite interesting and more in the gourmet end of the spectrum. They have pork, veal, chicken and beef dishes and several extremely interesting appetizers. We liked it a lot and would recommend it for a quiet, peaceful, elegant meal, much like Rafael's. This is a good choice it you are "burritoed" out.
 
LA GOLONDRINA  (#10 on our map) Paseo del Pescador Street     Click here for website
 
This is a 2011 addition to our guide, having been suggested by a friend who told us to go here and order the lobster. Well, we went, but didn’t order the lobster, but only because we, ourselves, are not big fans of it. However, when we saw a couple of plates of lobster being carried (lugged) by the waiters to awaiting customers, I must say it provided quite a visual impression! The restaurant is reputedly a former trading post and got its name from the owner who took an annual trip to the mission at San Juan Capistrano. We all know what happens there every year and you will not be surprised to learn that “golondrina” means swallow, as in the bird, not as in the activity. The setting of this restaurant is lovely—a grove of trees that have been festively lit with spiraling lights make up much of the garden décor. The tables are spread out on the expansive patio. The menu is posted on a wall next to the open-air kitchen which affords you a clear view of the chefs, the flames jumping around and the beehive of activity. Two of us ordered the jumbo shrimp dinner for two and we were not disappointed at all, even within the boundaries of our honed skills at determining well-cooked shrimp. Enormous specimens were cooked teriyaki style, coconut style and two were breaded. All came with four different dipping sauces. Included in the meal plan was a tostada salad, soup, garlic bread and a choice of potatoes, rice or vegetables. Our party also ordered ribs and the golondrina salad, all of which got high marks. Rumor has it that the Mexican coffee is also first rate but we did not find out for ourselves. This place is not cheap, but well worth the cost.
 
FELIX (#11 on the map-- right up the street from Pancho's) Miguel Hidalgo Street     Click here for Trip Advisor
 
Felix is a very interesting Mexican restaurant that inexplicably never seems to be busy, but is noteworthy for its variety of salsas. Once seated, you will have the standard chips served to you, but the big difference here is that you also get about a half dozen small glasses with spoons in them at the same time. The idea is that you get to pick your own variety of salsas from the "salsa bar," which has about 12- 15 varieties, ranging from straight guacamole to tongue-scorching concoctions with chili peppers and then more chili peppers. They are all labeled with content and for hotness (as denoted by numbers of hot peppers, from 1-4). The menu is principally Mexican, but the difference in the menu is that there are some utterly unique items on it-- the coconut mango shrimp is to die for. Spencer, the owner, is a genuine character and will talk your ear off. He is a real promoter, but harmless. If you order the shrimp, he will tell you that his restaurant is the only one in town that doesn't overcook them. He sounds rather vain, but in fact you will discover that it is often true. After having the coconut mango shrimp on the first night of our 2001 trip to Cabo, I stopped ordering shrimp everywhere else after two episodes showing the wisdom in Spencer's observation. Also, it is worthwhile to check out their menu and try some of the less-well-known, but totally enjoyable meals, such as the Chiles en Nogada (superb—try this for sure!), Poblano Molé and others. Don’t be put off by not recognizing the names of the dishes—they are genuine treats. 2013 update: Spencer sold the place, but it remains virtually the same as described above.
 
Also of note is the fact that this restaurant, in the morning hours, is called Mama's Royal Cafe. It is an excellent place for breakfast, including the "World Famous French Toast." Spencer claims that no restaurant known for its breakfasts can do well for dinners and this, according to him, accounts for the dearth of people at night time. We have totally LOVED this place and at times found it to be disappointing. The salsas and other specialties mentioned above are worth a try.
 
CAMPESTRE (#12 just off the map) Salvatierra Street     Click here for website  
 
This is an absolutely delightful small place WAY off the beaten track. It is actually at the very end of town near the Chedraui Market (see below) and close to the highway toward Todos Santos. When I asked for their address, the waiter explained that it is “just the street” but there is no number for it. I got one of their cards and sure enough, it just says “Salvatierra s/n entre A. López Mateos y Camino al Faro Col. Matamoros.” OK…. You may need to ask for directions from somebody, but taxi drivers seem to know it. The guacamole dip was perhaps the finest I have ever tasted. Our selections for the evening included garlic shrimp, potato flautas and veracruz fish and all were top notch. Add to that the fact that our margaritas were big enough to high dive into at a cost of under $4 and well, you get the idea. This was one of “the” finds of 2010 and one that we will seek out again, for sure. If you decide to stock your condo at the Chedraui Market, you can eat at Campestre first, then shop afterwards. You’ll have a full stomach to eliminate buying all those “munchies” and you’ll have plenty of money left after paying your dinner bill for the good stuff that you’ll buy at Chedraui. 2012 note: locals advised us to go to Campestre for their breakfast, so off we went and we found an entirely different place. As opposed to night time, when the crowds are very thin, the place was packed for breakfast. As best we could determine, we were one of two tables of gringos there, but the wait people all speak English and very nice. The prices? About 2/3 of what breakfast at the Office costs, but then there’s no sand on your feet! Highly recommended. 2013 update: It seems the word is out. We again enjoyed our bargain meal with our beloved "high dive" margaritas, but unlike before, we were not the only gringos there. This year the crowd was about 50/50 at dinner time. They have spiffed the place up a bit, including a substantial improvement on the toilets, but for all intents and purposes, this remains one of our favorites.

 
       A bit hard to find, but worth the effort.....                             especially at breakfast time
 
ALCARAVEA (#13 on the map) Zaragoza Street at 16 de. Septiembre     Click here for Google Plus 
 
A friend had told me about this Italian place and I checked it out in May, 2011. We both returned in 2012 and found it to be slightly more on the “classy” end. The menu is varied and there is a full bar and a considerable list of wines. We enjoyed a salad and a lovely veal dish. The chef, Enrique Diaz Gerard was enthusiastic and engaging. We will definitely return. 2015 update: When we tried to make a Valentine's Day reservation for dinner, the place was completely sold out, but a very engaging employee told us about their "business lunch," so we tried it out. There is MUCH to say for this! It included three courses-- a choice of salad or one of two soups, a choice of four entrees and a diminutive, but lovely small dessert. The cost was 120 pesos (not including anything to drink), which in 2015 was just over US $8. The lunch, alone, is worth the trip, but the wine selection appears excellent and I can only imagine the dinner possibilities. This place rose in our estimation more than any other place this year.
 
LOLITA’S (#14 on the map) Matamoros Street     Click here for Trip Advisor  
 
Another of our 2010 discoveries this is a restaurant that is strong on atmosphere and weak on service. The charm in Lolita’s was its open-air setting that was principally occupied by locals. Also of note was a line up of large pots boiling away with pozole, birria (a beef stew) and other bubbling delights. When our party of 8 walked in, it appeared that it overwhelmed the staff. In spite of all that, we all had our meals and paid a pittance. I can’t say the quality was the best, but I really liked the fact that we were on a quiet side street without traffic (cars or pedestrian). It’s an easy walk from Lazaro Cardenas.


    Unassuming, but worth the trip
 
LAS GUACAMAYAS  (#15 on the map) Alikan Street/corner of Jose Morelos Street     Click here for Trip Advisor
 
The maid in our timeshare recommended this place, which caught our attention. We figured she probably didn’t go to many high-priced touristy restaurants. We had difficulty finding it online, so we asked the concierge and got an extremely enthusiastic response. She told us that whenever she has family or company in town who want to eat at a “typical local place,” she takes them here. She was specific in her praise about how clean it is, how great the prices are and how excellent the molcajetes are. It is a bit out of the way—walk up Jose Morelos Street away from the big mall for 8 blocks, which will bring you to Alikan Street. It is on that corner. When we walked there, we were instantly reminded that within a half block off Lazaro Cardenas (the main drag) we had left the touristed section of Cabo behind. We saw ALL locals up the street and felt no concerns at all. We found Guacamayas (The Parrots) to be exactly as advertised—clean, very nice people and the food was possibly the most interesting we found this entire trip. We WAY over-ordered when we got a beef-rib molcajete, a chorizo sopes and a shredded chicken tostada. On top of the excellent munchies presented (sliced cucumbers, jalapeno peppers and grilled onions, all served with avocado dipping sauce) we were entirely stuffed and still had more than half our meal left. The spices were very tasty, the lack of chips and salsa refreshing and the bill came in at $20. We would now put this place at or near the top of our list, as of 2012. Don’t miss it. 2013 update: We returned with six friends and got universal praise for this place. The prices remain incredibly reasonable. As a side note, we ran into some locals we actually know here and they said it was their favorite place, plus they recommended another place that we tried the next night (see #19 below). 2014 update: We wanted to take more two friends to this restaurant and were surprised and pleased to discover that a SECOND one had opened up on Lazaro Cardenas street, just down the street from the Mercado. It would be about where the "AR" in Lazaro appears on the map-- just below the #14. The menu and the prices seemed the same, but the ambiance, while similar, was slightly more upscale. Still-- a very, very strong recommendation from us. We will keep our eye out to make sure it doesn't turn into an expensive place like to many of the other "downtown" restaurants have. 2015 update: We made our now-annual walk to the "new" place and discovered that on Friday and Saturday nights they have a live band playing. That is an understatement. It was blaring. We could barely talk across the table. The food and prices remain steady, but we will most likely return to the "original" with its quiet atmosphere.

 
The unassuming outside of the original at night..                   and the colorful interior walls
 
MOCAMBO (#16 on the map) Leona Vicario Street     Click here for Trip Advisor
 
No restaurant got more recommendations from the LOCALS than Mocambo. We often ask people who live in Cabo where they like to eat and it is rare that this restaurant is NOT listed. Do not go for the decor-- it is a large, rectangular and singularly unimpressive facility, but the seafood is extremely good. In 2004 we had the fish with Veracruz salsa and the bacon-wrapped shrimp and found both to be both tasty and reasonably priced. If you are a fish fan, I would recommend this place quite highly.
 
SEÑOR GREENBERG'S (#17 on the map) in the Puerto Paraiso mall     Click here for Trip Advisor
 
In 2002 we returned to this place for the second time and found it to be pretty nice for breakfast. They have bagels, all sorts of eggs, some bakery goods and a pretty good mocha. They can make sack lunches, which I'd recommend if you are going deep sea fishing. 2009 update: after having moved once already, this place has definitely gone upscale and is now located in the big mall next to Johnny Rocket’s. We stuck our heads in and it is now rather elegant looking, but the menu seemed to be about the same as before.
 
CABO COFFEE COMPANY (#18 on the map) Miguel Hidalgo Street     Click here for website
 
In 2004 we discovered the first apparent worthy replacement for an old favorite coffee shop of ours that closed down. This little place is owned by two Americans who want to provide quality espresso and want to support the coffee farmers. They buy directly from organic coffee growers so that the farmers receive more money themselves, which we support. The coffee is very good. If you like mochas, they use Ghirardelli chocolate instead of Hershey's, which we also prefer. They have limited seating and only a few little muffins.
 
Alternative coffee shops: Several other coffee shops (many with internet) have cropped up and I would imagine that the mere competition must keep the quality high. I have stuck with the Cabo Coffee Company when I have an espresso, but it appears that high octane coffee is on the rise in the areas. 2010 update: Yes, even Starbucks has made it Main Street now.


       A quiet spot for a nice coffee
 
EL PAISA (#19 on the map) Leona Vacario Street/corner of Alikan (just one block down from #15 Las Guacamayas)     Click here for Trip Advisor
 
As mentioned above (in #15) this was a brand new place in 2013, recommended by local friends. Six of us went there and found it be very, very basic with a limited menu. They do have soups, quesadillas and tacos. Most items have meat. No alcohol is served. The customer feedback (online) was nothing short of spectacular, but we found this to be all right, but nothing to rave about. The conspicuous pluses were that you can practice your Spanish there and that it is an absolute bargain. Tacos are served on soft tortillas and have only the meat on it. There is then a help-yourself bar with salsas, cheese, onions, guacamole, etc, to "doctor" your tacos. It is similar to Gardenias (#25 below).

Also of note, when I looked online, I found there is another place (also on Leona Vacario Street) called "Los Paisas" and it appeared to be similar, but possibly more upscale. We intend to check it out next time. I did not get the cross street, but it is closer to town that El Paisa, but farther than Mocambo (#16). If you want to try it out, it will be on the right side of Leona Vacario as you walk away from the Big Mall.
 
LAS MARISCADAS  (#20 on the map) Cabo San Lucas Street     Click here for Trip Advisor
 
Walking up Cabo San Lucas Street away from the main street of town, we happened upon this place in 2011. It is just beyond Mi Casa. It was closed the day we passed it (Wednesday) but looked like fun and we decided to try it out. As it turned out, it had only been open for one month, which accounted for why we didn’t recognize it. The owner, Jose Valdez, was friendly and the waiter was beyond helpful, as he offered to go down the street to buy any drink we wanted, since the requested Sprite was unavailable. Now that is service! We ordered a variety of fish items (the sub-heading of the restaurant is “mariscos frescos,” or “fresh seafood.”) The food was better than average, but not exactly spectacular. We cut them some slack, given their incredibly friendly reception and the fact that they were in their first month. We ordered the seafood platter for two, which had fish, crab, octopus and shrimp on it. We don’t normally care for octopus, but he waiter assured us it was very good and that if we didn’t like it, we could send it back. It was better than most octopus I’ve eaten, but then again, that isn’t saying a lot. We plan to return to see how it is doing. We liked it.
 
LOS MICHOACANOS  (#21 on the map) Leona Vicario Street     Click here for website   
 
This was our first “find” in the “local” area in 2007. It is a carnitas place, which means it has a wide variety of meats, including some that you are better off enjoying without knowing exactly what it is! We were taken to this place by some locals who ordered for us, but I am certain that pointing and asking questions could also work. It is about 2-3 blocks north of Mocambo (see #16 above) and is the place that we again emphasize is NOT of the chic, fancy or “touristy” style. However, it is fun and reasonably priced.

 
       Michoacano on Leona Vicario                                   The menu posted on the wall
 
MARIA CORONA (#22 on the map) 16 de Septiembre Street     Click here for website    
 
I am pleased to report a new “find” in 2010 that is located on Septiembre 16 street. Maria Corona is not a “funky little local place,” but our experience here was one of impressive quality of food, a bit slow on the service and incredibly reasonable prices. All of this within the confines of a new place (it is 8 months old as of this writing in Feb, 2010) that is charming in spite of its newness. The sad news for me is that I only found it because I was headed for one of our previous “finds” that WAS a hole in the wall patronized by locals only and, much to my sadness, found it boarded up. Places come and go in Cabo quickly and I will hold fond memories of our $10 (for two) lunch at El Jarocho, which was previously across the street from Maria Corona. 2012 update: The spot previously occupied by El Jarocho has been assumed by a new hole-in-the-wall place called La Folera. We glanced at the menu and saw that (for example) chilaquiles with chicken cost about US $4.50. There was also another new place next door to it (directly across the street from Maria Corona) called La Fondita, which advertised hand-made tortillas. We went for lunch one day and had chicken mole and chili rellenos (both served with rice and beans) along with one soft drink. The bill? $11. Wow. Do not be put off by the “casualness” of these two places—they are worth trying and are bargains!


                        Maria Corona entrance  
 
CAPO SAN GIOVANNI (# on the map) CHECK ONLINE-- THEY HAVE MOVED!     Click here for Trip Advisor
 
Maybe it was the lights that attracted us, but we walked into this place and were greeted by its jovial owner, Gian Franco, who is really from Italy. If you don’t believe me, just talk to him. That’s all you’ll need for proof! This is a place that is more on the elegant end of the spectrum, with meals that are mostly Italian and more interesting than average. Gian Franco and his wife, Hilde, are fun unto themselves. There is usually atmospheric music (live) playing in the background. Gian Franco has even grabbed the mike on occasion and crooned! While not as pricey as Casa Rafael, this place is not the “bargain” that some others are, but highly recommended for a “nicer” meal. 2015 update: We were quite surprised to find this favorite location shut down with a small description of its new location up in Pedregal. We didn't make it this year, but presume it is the same wonderful food and the same friendly service provided by Gian Franco and Hilde.
 
SALVATORE (#24 on the map) Zapata Street     Click here for Google Plus  
 
A local Canadian told us about this place in 2009 and recommended the lasagna, which is the special of the night on Wednesday and Friday. We thought we’d drop in on Wednesday only to discover the place packed! We made reservations for the following Friday and weren’t disappointed. We ordered the calamari appetizer (it is so-so), then the spinach salad, which was easily enough for 3-4 people. The special, we’d been told, comes in large portions, so we ordered a single plate and the two of us could barely make it past the halfway point. Impressive in quantity! The taste was better than average, but not spectacular. I’d recommend this to a family, as the price for our meal (as described above) came to $25. The menu had other interesting items that I think we’ll try. 2010 update: we went back and among the four of us had scampi, chicken risotto and four cheese ravioli and found them all to be excellent. The place was packed—get reservations if you are headed there later than 6:00.


     It's the courtyard you'll like
 
GARDENIAS (#25 on the map)     Click here for Trip Advisor
 
The same Canadian also mentioned this taco place as a “local favorite,” so we decided to give it a try, too. It does not serve dinners, by the way, so you need to head there during the midday. It is slightly off the beaten path of the main drag of town and has plenty to offer. The tacos are very basic, as they come served on a small soft tortilla. On the plus side, they also serve a variety of extras that you can put onto your taco to spruce it up. The atmosphere is open-air with basic furniture, but the prices are great. They also serve quesadillas, rice, beans and drinks. 2015 update: This place has added many menu choices, including a full bar and several dishes, such as molcajetes, which we tried and found superb.


      Better every year with more choices
 
EL SQUID ROE (#26 on the map) Lazaro Cardenas Street     Click here for website
 
The Anderson brothers have created chains of restaurants throughout Mexico and some of them have made it into the US. They are varied in approach. You will not require directions to these places-- they will jump out at you! El Squid Roe is right on the main street and is raucous and a bit more geared for the party crowd, but if you arrive earlier (like 5:30- 6:00) you can have a good meal without all the wildness. The walls are covered by funny signs, old license plates, paintings and other entertaining things. The Mayan fish is exceptional and the tall glasses of iced tea, Coke, etc., are fun for the kids. Don't be put off by the decor-- the floor is covered with sawdust and the tables are covered with paper so you can color right on the tablecloth. The food is quite good.


       A fun place with decent food
 
LA PANGA ANTIGUA  (#27, in San Jose del Cabo and NOT on the map)     Click here for website
 
Our 2011 trip in San Jose del Cabo yielded a stunning surprise in this elegant, beautifully appointed restaurant. It is a part of the Mi Casa family (#6 above) and is worth the trip, to say the least. It is housed in an old hacienda and the entry way is already enough to lure you in. The tables are arranged on a multi-tiered patio, thus rendering more of a sense of privacy. The lighting on the bougainvilleas and other plants is inspiring, as is the food itself. We enjoyed a variety of dishes and even though the bill was substantial, we found ourselves not really caring, given the enchanting evening we had enjoyed. It is located in the heart of the old town on Zaragoza Street, almost directly across from the main church in town and a stone’s throw from the main plaza. It may have provided “the” highlight of our entire 2011 stay in the Baja.
 
SOLOMON’S LANDING (#28 on the map) on the marina     Click here for website
 
We had heard about this restaurant for years and had walked past it many, many times before 2011 when we finally went in for a meal. Like the Baja Cantina (see #2 above) Solomon’s Landing is located right on the marina, next to one of the flea markets in town. The setting also affords a lustful view of the million dollar yachts that inexplicably never seem to be out to sea (make me wonder what the REAL purpose of these babies must be) and the people-watching is also fun. When the cruise ships are in, the marina is packed with them, always making for a widely-varied view. The food at Solomon’s was all right—not spectacular, but it always seems to us that people who live in Cabo invariably mention this place. Actually….. when I think about it, it’s only the Americans who talk about it. I wouldn’t let that scare me off, though!


              Also has a marina view

BLACK FOREST RESTAURANT (#29 on the map) Leona Vicario Street     Click here for Facebook page
 
This is perhaps the biggest surprise addition to the guide in a long time. We were walking up Miguel Hidalgo Street and saw a man staining a wooden entry way that struck us as rather "German" in appearance, so we stuck our noses in and discovered that a brand new place was literally opening the next day, which was Friday, February 13. We went back a couple of nights later and found the place decorated entirely Bavarian-style with wooden chairs and tables, pictures on the wall of men in Lederhosen sitting on beer kegs and a lovely rendition of Neuschwanstein, King Ludwig's famed castle in the Bavarian Alps. Our dinner was served by a friendly Mexican waitress dressed in a Dirndl and we enjoyed our schnitzel and our goulash that came along with red cabbage, potatoes, spaetzle and sauerkraut. There were several bottled beers also available. We will go back. German food in Cabo? It may seem strange until you think that you can also get Mexican food in Munich, so why not?
 

OTHER NICE SPOTS TO EAT OR HAVE A DRINK
 
With the sun setting over the Pacific Ocean, it is a fantastic idea to have an end-of-day drink and watch the red ball sink below the horizon. You can’t really go wrong—here are a couple places we have enjoyed, largely because our timeshare is right on the Pacific Ocean: Hotel Finisterra, Terra Sol, La Calima (at Playa Grande) DiGiorgio's (just out of town)
 
PLACES NOT TO EAT WHEN IN MEXICO
 
Unfortunately, Cabo is being "Americanized" more and more, so that you will find Subway, Dominoes Pizza, Dairy Queen, Pizza Hut, Kentucky Fried Chicken and other disgusting imports (such as the Hard Rock Cafe) that mar the landscape on Cabo. I, personally, feel it's too bad that this charming town has lost part of its character in order to cater to the tourists. We try to avoid these places as much as possible, although I admit we frequented DQ...... shame on us. We would heartily suggest not going to the places that are readily available in the U.S.  for their predictable food and instead enjoying the unique places of Cabo. This is the end of the editorial.
 
SOME OTHER IMPORTANT THOUGHTS
 
Just so you are aware of a couple things that many inexperienced Mexico travelers seem to worry about, here are a couple of “little details” about your time in Cabo:
 
The water—it is ABSOLUTELY FINE to drink the water. I am certain that the locals would not want anyone to get sick from the water, so feel free to drink water everywhere. You will usually see signs at restaurants (or on the menus) that indicate that all water is filtered and that all fruits and vegetables are washed. Most time-shares have filtered water systems so that drinking the water out of the tap, brushing your teeth, etc., are all fine. If you continue to have any worries, you can always purchase bottled water at the markets.

Montezuma’s revenge—another myth that cannot seem to die. We have now been to Cabo about 30 times (literally) and experienced only one episode of anything that resembled GI distress. After so many years, it is now our opinion that Montezuma probably visits all the Gringos who spend too much time in the sun drinking too much alcohol. This is not scientifically proven, but much like my comments above about the water, tourism has become such an enormous industry in Mexico that I am certain all efforts are being made to avoid people getting sick. I would still advise rinsing off any fruits, the skins of which you are eating (such as strawberries or apples), but otherwise, you are most likely not in danger.

Theft—we feel utterly safe in Cabo at all times. We never worry about being held up or mugged and we both feel we would turn our children loose in town without any real worries about it. Now for the bad news! We have now had two episodes of having had our VISA number stolen. The fraud departments at VISA, etc., are very vigilant about this and they will contact you when/if you are suddenly buying a car in Guadalajara or $600 worth of groceries in Mazatlan weeks after you leave! Yes, both of these have happened to us! Having said that, we now think that the thieves have a quick and simple way of duplicating the magnetic strip on the back of your card for their own future use. As best we can figure, they are mostly attracted to the “big” cards, which mean Platinum VISA, etc. If you have a garden variety credit card, you are probably OK. Again, we have used our VISA very extensively over our 30 visits and experienced only two “episodes,” one in Cabo and one in Mazatlan, so we still don’t view this as a major problem.

Money—given the above, you might want to consider taking a cash card, cash or traveler’s checks. You do NOT need to convert dollars into pesos before you go—they are readily accepted by everyone everywhere, ranging from taxis to street side vendors. We normally bring about $300 in cash, largely because you can only pay for a taxi/shuttle/bus from the airport with cash. After that, it is handy to have both one dollar bills and five dollar bills—these are handy for taxis, tipping people or buying little trinkets or gifts. There are also plenty of ATM machines. 2011 update: the rate currently stands at about 12 to 1 and the locals have also caught up with the exchange rate. When you are presented with a bill (for example, at a restaurant) it will be both in dollars and in pesos and (in my calculations) you are typically better off paying with your pesos. Remember, too, that many VISA cards now add a 3% fee on all charges. 2013 update: Given my 2011 recommendation, I must say that this year I discovered that there is virtually no difference between paying cash or using a credit card. The ATM machines (which almost ALL dispense US dollars only) extract a fee that pretty nearly equals the 3% VISA charge. If you are a lucky person who owns a VISA without a foreign fee, you may find that using your VISA works as well as cash.

Arriving at the airport—it is best to be prepared for this! It is a mob scene there with sales people trying to get you to commit to time share breakfasts (see above). If you are open to spending some time doing a breakfast, the “deal” is that you will have your private taxi fee (which is OUTRAGEOUS!!!) reimbursed. The taxis in 2011 are up to $80 (!) and the shuttles are about $18/person and stop approximately 10,000 times. (Can you tell my bias here?). If you just suck it up (like we do) and pony up the 80 in order to get to your resort in 35-40 minutes and then let it go, we feel it’s the best way. If you choose to go the shuttle route, you will be spending the first couple of hours (depending on where you hotel is) bouncing along in a bus or van, stopping incessantly. We did this twice and never did it again, but then our resort is literally the LAST stop, so we know for sure that we are in for the “long” ride. If you agree to the sales pitch, you DO get reimbursed the taxi fare, you will (in most cases) also get a taxi from your hotel back to the airport paid AND you will receive some kind of gift (such as a meal voucher, a whale-watching trip, or some equivalent) so that it isn’t an entirely terrible thing. We have now done it so many times we prefer not to have the 2-3-4-5 hours of our trip spent on saying “no, no, no, no and 100 more times NO!). It’s up to you. It is not always easy (the first few times) to say “no” to the people at the airport—they are very persistent. If you like the “get there as fast as possible” plan, point your eyes straight ahead after customs, march through the crowd of overly friendly hawkers and go to the taxi ticket purchase stand and request a PRIVATE taxi. This is your guarantee that your party alone will be taken to your hotel directly and without delays or promises to go to a sales meeting/breakfast.

Grocery stores: there are several and each has advantages. In the middle of Cabo San Lucas is your basic “Mercado,” which has most staples and is the most convenient. However, the prices are considerably higher. You “buy” your conveniences there. A relatively short taxi ride away is the Chedraui Market, which is definitely bigger, has better variety of foods (fruits, vegetables, etc). The advantage to Chedraui is that it is still in CSL and has better prices and more variety than the Mercado, but requires some effort to get there. The supermarket we like the best is actually in Cabo San Jose. It is called MEGA. It is huge, clean and has the best produce we have seen, but is a lengthy distance from CSL. If you are renting a car, this would be worth the trip (our opinion). We’re not sure what the taxi would cost to go to and return from this place to CSL, but it would at least be worth considering. By the way, Costco is also now in Cabo San Lucas, so if you are looking to buy BULK, you can do your usual Costco trip in Mexico now. 2014 updates: Our cute little "Mercado," which remains in the middle of town, has drastically downsized, undoubtedly due to the competition from the Chedrauis and Megas. it now bears a strong resemblance to a 7-11 or other similar convenience stores. Now it appears to be a "pick up a six-pack of beer" sort of place, as opposed to how it was before-- a miniature grocery store. Meanwhile, when we went out for our annual trek to Chedraui, we discovered a brand-new MEGA across the street from it! While we were always happy with Chedraui, we decided to try out the new place and found it to be very similar to the Cabo San Jose version. So......if you are vacationing in Cabo San Lucas, you now have a MEGA much closer than the San Jose del Cabo store.

Safety: More and more people ask us if we “feel safe” in Mexico. We do. Absolutely. An article in the Los Cabos magazine in February, 2011 cited some statistics that are sobering (if you are American) and may help you gain perspective. Based on actual homicide rates, Cabo San Lucas is: 12 times safer than Honolulu, 18 times safer than Miami and a stunning 26 times safer than Orlando. Where are YOU planning on getting your sun?
 
THINGS TO DO IN CABO
 
There is a multitude of things to do in Cabo. As I said earlier, our favorites are resting and reading a stack of good books that we never have time for at home. However, if you are more adventuresome than that, here are a few things to consider:
 
Whale Watching-- Jan-March. various boats go out into the Pacific--- day and evening
Parasailing-- generally available from vendors around the Marina or Medano Beach
Deep sea fishing-- marlin, dorado, etc.-- nearly all-day events/can be expensive
Sunset cruises-- these are party boats with a live, loud band and lots of alcohol.
Minisubmarine tour-- fun for kids-- glass bottom boats/good to see fish
Lover's beach-- need to be taken out there by water taxi
Waverunners-- (or whatever they're called)-- readily available
ATV's-- for your basic into-the-desert adventure/these are guided tours
Snorkeling and scuba-- some of the beaches outside of town are best
Golf-- world-class courses; stunning scenery, equally stunning greens fees.......
Horse back riding-- either at the Hotel Melia or Pueblo Bonito/just ask
Glass factory-- finally made it there in 2002-- it was interesting and fun/good for children
Shop- (sorry guys, Mary Ellen made me put this here)-- there are many, many little shops    
     all over  Cabo with nothing in particular that is a "must buy" but there is plenty of
     bargain jewelry, lots  of keepsakes and, of course, the inevitable hats and souvenirs—
     Cabo is not, as far as I know, famous for anything in particular, so there is no local craft
     or asset that you should seek out in particular, but there are plenty of T-shirts, etc.,  etc.,
     that will entertain you  
The New Mall-- as of 2004, the HUGE new mall (opened in 2002) on the marina is growing
     and now has many shops open, including Johnny Rocket's Burger shop-- a 50's burger
     place. The mall is impressive. Lots and lots of granite, fountains, etc. Hard to say exactly
     what it will eventually become, but we have some reservations about what will happen
     to all the "little guy" vendors. You can't miss it-- the main entry is right out on Lazaro
     Cardenas Street when you come into town and there's another major entry way on the
     marina. 2009 update: this place is now filling up with upscale stores. There’s lots of
     jewelry, clothing, etc. If you are seeking “posh,” this is the place. Also, the deli called
     La Europa (which faces the marina) is the best price for tequila, etc. Believe me, we
     have looked everywhere and these folks beat all other prices!  2015 update: It was
     immediately apparent to us that the hurricane devastated the mall. While the city and
     the infrastructure appears to be doing well, the mall had NO LIGHTS when we went
     through it and the store owners were helping shoppers with flashlights. Yikes.
Cabo San Jose-- the other "city" in the Cabo area, about 15 miles from Cabo San Lucas-
   you'll go past it on the your way to CSL from the airport. We have heard many good
   things about this place from several people, but went there for the first time in 1996 and
   could not seem to find what all the excitement was about. However, in the fair-minded
   tradition of our trips to Cabo, we did find some good restaurants there!! Try La Picazón
   and El Fiesta, the latter with several vegetarian meals. You'd either have to take a taxi or
   bus (or hitchhike) to Cabo San Jose, or rent a car. I'm not sure it's worth it, but if Cabo
   San Lucas doesn't strike you as "Mexican" enough, CSJ may help you feel that way. We
   really liked LaPanga a lot (see #27 above) and it may be worth the trip all by itself. 2011
   update:
As Cabo San Lucas continues to Americanize, we can definitely see the pluses
   and charm of Cabo San Jose. Definitely retains more "mexican" feel, but also showing
   signs of more condos, etc.
LaConcha-- a nice getaway from the crowds and the towns. This is a small "resort" (to use
    the word lightly) at the Melia outside of town, very close to the Westin Regina Hotel. At
    La Concha there is a nice jetty that creates a shallow, clear, calm swimming area in the
    Sea of Cortez and a small restaurant for drinks or meals. It is still under construction
    and we were told that on the weekends, the locals go there and it can be crowded. We
    went on a weekday and shared the area with about 10 other people-- a nice diversion
Todos Santos-- this is a smaller, quieter artist town north of Cabo San Lucas. It is probably
    a drive of about one hour or so (depending on how fast you drive). It apparently has
    some good restaurants and lots of art work to see. Also of note is the famous (from the
    Eagles' song) Hotel California. From all reports, you will NOT want to eat there! We
    wandered around Todos Santos for one short, hot afternoon several years ago, but in
    fairness, we had a rather cranky 4 year old with us, which may have tainted out view!
    We have heard many favorable reports from others, so this may be a nice day outing.
    2011 update: We spent a very enjoyable afternoon in TS and saw lots of art work. It was
    also a nice relief from the intensity of CSL. It’s worth the trip. 2014 update: Although we
   did not actually experience it ourselves, we heard that the highway from CSL to Todos
   Santos is now a divided, four-lane highway, which has drastically cut the drive time.




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